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Ciao amici,
Come state? Io sto incartando i regali! I'm wrapping the gifts! One of my sacrosanct Christmas pleasures. Hard to defend against clerks and saleswomen who don't even ask if you need a "confezione regalo", gift wrapping, but automatically start to. And then turn to you, astonished, when you stop them. Striking you with scandalized looks when you refuse even the - branded - gift paper. Some go as far as mumbling, "who has the time for that kind of stuff..."
But I'm the kind of lady who puts on her Christmas vinyl collection, sits on the floor scattered with coordinated paper, ribbons, and tape, and sips a hot and spiced tea between a wrap and the other.
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Christmas dichotomies apart, today is the day when I take you to Christmassy Venice!
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There are many reasons to visit Venice in December. My first, personal, is that last weekend was a "ponte", a bridge: by taking one day off of work - Friday - you had four days for a mini holiday. From Thursday, December 8th - the day of the Immaculate Conception, a national holiday - to Sunday, December 11th. By the way, one of the most welcomed 2023 news, spreading in every WhatsApp chat in the peninsula, is that the coming year is the year of "ponti": with four days off the office, you get to have thirty-two days of vacation!
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The other reasons to take a four-hour train to the Laguna on a rainy December Thursday are many, and some quite unexpected.
Christmas decorations aren't many. It feels like the city is saying, with a self-confident, opinionated face: "do you really think I need ornaments? I mean, have you seen me?".
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But the red-striped poles, the red-ribboned Gondolieri hats, and some red flowers on the balconies compensate wonderfully.
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Plus, the tree in San Marco, so huge and elegantly dressed, is, truly, all you need to feel the seasonal vibes.
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But really, you go to Venice in December if you want to see Christmas tree sellers occupying the space around a bridge crossing a canal and the entrance of a church. And then a couple walking away with their tree on a trailer - I guess it's a must-have if you live in a city with no cars.
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You visit Venice in the winter if you love foggy aesthetics.
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If you wish to experience "acqua alta", high water, and, for the occasion, bring your rainboots and an umbrella matching the gondolas' colors.
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If you want to show off your boldness by wearing those same rainboots at the theatre, paired with a blue organza skirt...
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not changing them with much more appropriate footware, like locals do:
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and certainly not nailing it like they did:
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You go to Venice in winter if you want to see the Rialto market full of seasonal produce (and flowers):
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If you want to finally visit the Peggy Guggenheim museum and find your new favorite painting:
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- The Dominion of Light, 1953-4, By René Magritte -
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If you want to discover your new favorite place:
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If you want to see the Mocenigo palace you missed last time you were there.
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If you want to laugh at the proliferation of pasta street food and takeaway venues.
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If you want to admire chocolate trees and a chocolate Doge's Palace.
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If you want to try Veneto's Pandoro (less buttery but incredibly fluffier): the Fugassa, but the real thing, from a bakery with the lab visible and the cakes hung upside down to avoid flattening.
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And if you want to take back to your b&b two brioches filled with chocolate and believe the promise of the lady at the bakery that by just heating them over the radiator the next morning, they'll be just as good as today.
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You also go to December-Venice if you want to try the restaurant a friend from Treviso recommended, devour everything, get tipsy over a fabulous wine, and have to skirt the canal carefully, you never know...
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If you want to follow your mom's advice and go for a drink at the Dandolo Bar inside the Hotel Danieli, "so you can see the hotel, it's a dream!". And be snubbed because they are fully reserved, hosting a company event, and, probably, because you are dressed like a wet, Santa-hatted, comfy-shoes tourist...
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If, by simply letting your husband tinker with google, you are happy to find a great, unexpected alternative. A jazz & cocktails bar where you can sip your favorite Vermouth (del Professore) comfortably seated on an ancient, decadent armchair - bought at the "yard" sale of a historic Venetian hotel, we later learned.
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And you go to Venice in December if you have the perfect book to read every night before falling asleep. Exhausted, still a bit wet, but happy.
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RELATED TO THE FLORENTINE SIMPOSIO
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Talking about perfect books, Christmassy, because I really like to dive into the season, here's what I'm reading:
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I bought it to learn all about the Ceppo Fiorentino, the forerunner of the Christmas tree, that looked like this:
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and was filled with greenery, ribbons, little toys, and sweets.
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That's it for today, amici amanti del Natale. Enjoy your holidays. Enjoy the company of the nice people in your life.
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Try to learn something from those who unnerve you. I'll try, really, really try, to do the same. So you'll be in good (I hope it's good) company. If not... there's always wine!
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And... if you need to divert attention from you or impellent tragedy, as promised, here's an irresistible card game: Sputo!
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An Italian card game for Christmas: Sputo
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Italian Christmas sangria with red wine and rosemary
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a great, easy, cocktail recipe for your Christmas gatherings
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Italian smoked salmon pasta recipe
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Italian smoked salmon pasta recipe (penne al salmone) made with penne pasta, smoked salmon, heavy cream, white wine, a hint of brandy, and fresh parsley. A delicious, festive, and traditional Italian pasta dish for Christmas Eve!
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Christmas day in Italy
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Christmas day in Italy: food, meals, and traditions.
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FLORENCE'S SIMPOSIO: A SINFUL FLORENTINE TRAVEL COOKBOOK
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Florence's Simposio is a travel cookbook from Italy with the city's traditional and authentic recipes and my favorite Renaissance Florentines. Men and women, sinners, anachronistically flung in Dante's Inferno and then celebrated with tasty menus. Because in their sins lays their genius. Because they teach us to accept who we are and toast to our flaws. Because in their company …
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Was this entertaining, informative, or just a bit fun?
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