Ciao amici,
Oggi vi scrivo dalla Maremma. Today I'm writing you from Maremma (Tuscany).
We are spending the weekend in the splendid Monte Argentario, so I was inspired to share a little writing from Maremma's Simposio. Enjoy!
"To reach the Monte Argentario from Orbetello, you cross a road just above the water, on an artificial bridge. It is a beautiful short ride. I always roll down the windows and enjoy the air flowing, messing up my air, and bringing me the smell of the sea. The mount would've been an island if it wasn't for the sand strips created by the joint action of marine currents and the river Albegna. We must thank both because the result is two spectacular places to walk, run, bathe, and sunbathe.
In the Giannella, I walk every morning, and I take my dog. It is my favorite place to be alone, meditate and recharge, smelling the unique hints of the Mediterranean shrub: thyme, rosemary, wild lavender, honeysuckle, myrtle, and oregano. Sometimes I also picnic, wrapped in a thick wool blanket - because out-of-season is my favorite season - with cornetti and improvised cappuccino cups.
The people I meet that early in the morning - before crowds invade the sand - are the most interesting. Amateur fishers who woke up way earlier than me, lazily waiting for the catch of the day. Although I have the suspicion that they care relatively. Senior couples relishing the hug of each other. Ladies digging the shore in search of "telline", Tirrenian smaller, flatter, tastier clams to make "pasta alle vongole" the way Italians used to do back in the day. I also encounter many dogs, free to run since none of the early risers bother.
When I go to the other sand string, Feniglia, the tone changes completely. This is the place where you put on your cutest bathing suit, have lunch in one of the fish restaurants, buy fake designer bags from the beach vendors, and stroll up and down the shore to see if you meet someone you know.
Historic establishments dominate the first part of the seaside: rows and rows of sundecks and paired umbrellas force your path to the restaurant, cafe, or bathroom through an intricate zigzagging. You improvise dance steps to avoid the eternally relocating sunbeds of those craving an intense "tintarella", tan, or of those, like me, chasing the shelter of the so disdained shadow.
Next to the semi-regulated crowd is the public beach where you can admire the Italian ingenuity at work. Basic and wild huts are built by fixing pareos and beach towels to the whitish wood logs found on the sand. More sophisticated constructions with annexations, partitions, and even dining rooms follow. And whole condominiums where neighbors share the common love for freedom without solitude invade the thick Pineta, pine forest, background. It is very, very fun to witness.
I find my way out of all this Italian extroversion when I go in May, June, September, or October. Restaurants and bathing establishments are open, but there's no need to book a week in advance. And the beach walk that takes you to Ansedonia - but I've never gone so far - is all for you."
That's it, cari miei. Enjoy the peak of Spring. Let it change you, reinvent you, nurture you!



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