Ortigia, Sicily: A Local Guide to Food, History and Hidden Beauty

Why Ortigia Stays With You

Take a bite of a warm brioche.

Now tear off a small piece and dip it into almond granita.

Close your eyes.

The sea is impossibly blue.

Baroque balconies catch the morning light.

Someone is laughing at the fish market.

A church bell rings somewhere behind the stone alleys.

Welcome to Ortigia.

The historic heart of Syracuse is not simply a place to visit. It is one of those rare places that gently slows you down until you begin seeing Sicily differently.

WHAT MAKES ORTIGIA SPECIAL?

Ortigia is the ancient island at the heart of Syracuse, connected to the mainland by just a short bridge.

Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Norman and Baroque influences overlap here without ever feeling forced. Every street seems to belong to several centuries at once.

It is small enough to explore entirely on foot, yet rich enough to keep revealing new details every time you visit.

Cathedral of Sanat Maria delle Colonne, Syracuse

DON’T RUSH ORTIGIA

This isn’t a city to tick off a list.

Sit down for a granita.

Watch fishermen unloading their catch.

Get lost in the narrow streets.

Pause every few minutes simply because the light has changed.

Ortigia rewards those who walk slowly.

foodtrotting sicily: deconstructed cannoli

THINGS TO SEE IN ORTIGIA

Ortigia Fish Market

I’m usually cautious when suggesting a market or fish market in a place. They often become tourist attractions with more tourists than locals.

But this one keeps calling me back.

Because it is all of the above.

Fishmongers call to one another across the stalls, oysters are opened on the spot, lemons perfume the air, and everything reminds you that this is much more than a local market.

You’ll notice that a few things are there especially for you, the curious traveller. But you’ll also see the lady next to you ordering the catch of the day while chatting about how she’ll prepare it for dinner.

The chaos is genuine, and so is the melancholic sight of the fishmonger who suddenly bursts into song: part theatre, part tradition, and part the very Italian desire to be seen and admired.

About Ortygia’s foodtrotting: one of the must see things (and maybe my favorite) there is the fish market. You will be entertained by singing fishers, amazed by the beauty of food and delighted by fresh oysters and cold white wine.

Temple of Apollo

One of the oldest Doric temples in Sicily.

There are many stories to learn about this place. But even more to imagine.

Gods, rituals, sacrifices, prayers… let your mind bring them back to life as you wander among the ruins.

Fonte Aretusa

This is a place to sit down and read the nymph Aretusa’s tragic story.

A place to follow the elegant movement of the papyrus floating on the water.

And a place to end this tiny adventure with a refreshing granita.

Piazza Archimede and Diana’s Fountain

One of Ortigia’s liveliest squares.

This is another place to sit down at a café and simply take your time.

Maybe with a sketchbook and a pencil in your hands, trying to capture every little detail and quietly pay homage to the goddess.

Syracuse Cathedral

Few buildings tell Sicily’s layered history better.

If you’ve ever wished a building could teach you history, this is where it happens.

Within these walls you’ll move from ancient Greece to early Christianity, through the Arab period, and back again to Catholicism.

The Greek Theatre

Just outside Ortigia lies one of the greatest Greek theatres of the ancient world.

If you’re visiting in late spring, try to attend one of the classical performances held every year.

I’ve laughed and cried, reflected and smiled. I’ve rediscovered part of my own culture and applauded until my hands hurt, all while daylight slowly turned into night.

Unforgettable.